The show began with a fairly conservative palette of dark greys, on bouclé jackets, corsets and overcoats. From here, Martens’ vivid experiments in fabrication arrived, like houndstooth jacquards intentionally woven to look as if they were disintegrating, or bouclé patterns printed onto lycra for a trompe-l’oeil effect. This was followed by a bouncing, yellow bandeau top made from one distended ruffle, trousers and corsets in reflective vinyl, and lots more trompe-l’oeil patterns in the form of cable knit mirages.
Photography Jamie-Maree Shipton