At this season’s London Fashion Week, talent incubator Fashion East once again set up shop in the Old Truman Brewery, showcasing the work of three different young designers. First up was Olly Shinder, returning for his third Fashion East collection with Summer Camp. For SS25, Shinder wanted to “unpack the brand’s conceptual drive,” that is the queering of everyday workwear uniforms. Air hostesses appeared with whip-like ponytails and ties caged to shirts, some boy scout bermudas were rendered in gummy leather, and high-waisted waders were studded all over with metal poppers. For Shinder, fashion is an “alchemic process through which the most unspectacular things become objects of urgent desire.”
Photography Chester McKee