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Only, something unexpected happened this time around, when Alva Claire emerged onto the runway in a distressed bodycon knit which had been sliced to the groin. It’s the first time de Saint Sernin has cast a ‘curve’ model in one of his shows – and though there was only one – the collection was all the better for it. The designer often speaks about the importance of dismantling staid notions of masculinity – creating skanky fashions for all genders – and so it was an effective turn to see him delve further into his inclusive ethics (specially when an aesthetic redux of the 00s can also set off the era’s corrosive body standards).

Photography Cris Fragkou

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