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Everything came out in clusters of three – taffeta, denim, leather, knits, diamanté – which was a decision de Saint Sernin had made with Vogue Runway’s grid in mind (another example of his fashion fanaticism). Alongside all the barely-there stuff were massive fuzzy trousers, shearling coats in a rich bitch cream, corseted trench coats, and satin Western shirts bearing rhinestoned LDSS logos. Made on a more stringent deadline than usual – de Saint Sernin was prepping his debut at Ann Demeulemeester at the same time – the collection was a distillation of why so many people (gay men and their girl friends) have found themselves lured into a grommeted hot pant. Click through out BTS gallery to see the rest of the collection.

Photography Cris Fragkou