If last season models looked like they had travelled up the Seine in a Durex condom, then the cast of AW23 had done the same in a murex seashell – comb-shaped sneakers with a curled toe and glossy ridges – that had been 3D-printed with Reebok. Their fuzzy sweaters had been spun from kelp fibres, they carried old bicycle seats as cross-body bags, and wore second-hand Scalextrics around their necks as if they were antique costume jewellery. Backstage, designer Lisi Herrebrugh explained her reasoning: “people want expensive cars, expensive materials, but actually what we should focus on is, how do we clean up the world?”
Photography Cris Fragkou
