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To that point, heels had been festooned with the knotted ends of balloons, mini “dresses” were draped in jagged, wired peaks, cashmere sweaters had been fronted by enormous, fabric-covered breastplates, and vest tops were made from hard, wipe-clean shells. Nothing was quite what it seemed, it was fashion to break the matrix. And this is true even at the most wearable end of the spectrum, where there were sheer and oversized shirt dresses, fluid evening wear which had been gathered with bows at the waist, and overblown jackets with sliced, floor-skimming sleeves.

Photography Cris Fragkou

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