This season’s collection was called Ghosts of My Life after the Mark Fisher book, in which the late writer devised the theory of an “impossible future”, something Lueder has been thinking about a lot this season. On the catwalk, this was telegraphed in a tonally muted colour palette, ghostly balaclavas that covered their wearers’ mouths, and a shirt that had the phrase ‘Sorry no budget’ written across it. “This was a bit of a comment about an industry which is very quick and maybe doesn’t allow us to grow slowly,” Lueder told us backstage.
Photography Eric Aydin-Barberini