This isn’t to say that the approach or execution was any different than before. Because all those references had already been distilled into the label’s codes over time, this season was about looking back and taking stock, refining motifs that had already been explored. Here, necklines were famously askew, trousers slouchy and important, and knitwear blocked with pastel stripes, but this time everything felt more clarified and – dare we say – luxurious. As Kostadinov made clear in those famous notes, this was “an aggregate manifesto of gestures and forms.”
Photography Cris Fragkou