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Elsewhere, the runes of Martens’ time at Diesel (where he has pushed denim to its most extreme fabrications) could be mapped across caftans, panelled biker jackets, and bralettes made from chambray shirt sleeves. But he also cut the material into sinuous, frayed tendrils which he embroidered on woollen coats, bodycons, and feather-light tulle gowns. Click through our BTS gallery to see more from Y/Project’s AW23 collection at Paris Fashion Week.

Photography Cris Fragkou

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