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Every season, Andreas Kronthaler approaches Vivienne Westwood as if it were a challenge to out-random himself. On a circular plinth in La Gaité Lyrique theatre, SS23 emerged like a mad art school project, with the designer wrapping models in 80s shoulders, haphazard Renaissance drapes, ballet flats, and knitted jock straps. Fringes were greased into finger waves, with pencil-thin eyebrows and a slash of bright pink lipstick, as if Kronthaler’s models had been simultaneously haunted by the ghost of a 16th century court jester and some smoking area darling at Shoreditch’s Boombox in 2004.

Photography Christina Fragkou

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