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There was an ease to the menswear in sloping day suits, deep-neck sweaters, and semi-sheer shirts that laid bare the ravines of the chest, but the designers’ signature utilitarian accents offered something a little meatier. Leather jackets were rounded at the shoulder and ever-so-slightly bruised, denim biker jackets had been cut with body-careening lines, itty-bitty shorts came with 3D cargo pockets, and bulky belt-bags disrupted all the elegance otherwise on show. At 112 years-old, Trussardi’s reinvention won’t occur overnight – or even across two seasons – but Huseby and Isik are surely poking the beast out of its hibernation.

Photography Cris Fragkou

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