It was “ruined preppiness”, “impulsive”, “uptown, made for living,” as the show notes read, but it was the word “value” that came before anything else. The value of a shit gay club anthem, the value of a charity shop t-shirt, which had been decked in in translucent paillettes. Elsewhere, men’s pieces comprised panelled denim skirts, inspired by padded military jackets, burnt devoré trousers, and heritage scarves stiffened into straps and belts. Ribbon cummerbunds gave a slight peplum effect when worn over jeans, and silk bomber jackets transformed images of the brand’s bags and buttons into equestrian, Hermès-style prints.
Photography Cris Fragkou