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Zac Posen Womenswear A/W11

Free of frou frou and feathers, Posen honed in on the hourglass figure

After last seasons’ Parisian debut which shimmied and frothed about on the catwalk last season, which sent out Posen’s mission statement, something well-established in New York but perhaps still needs to be reiterated here. Posen dresses the young, the fun and the flirty without too much concern for the intellectual properties of a dress. Then we had a collection today that took on a serious tone beginning with a jacket nipped in at the waist with body contouring panels that with exposed edges left raw. This would be a recurring motif throughout the collection that had this nipped in shape develop into knee length cocktail dresses and floor length gowns that all used the lines of exposed seams to emphasise  the curve.

The sheeny shininess of last season had been dulled to gunmetal grey matte sequins and leather. Similarly, the colours were limited to a muted palette of murky turquoise, green and deep royal blue with shades of dusky pink and brownish maroon to warm things up. The shimmying smiles and carefree girl may be away for the season but perhaps she has grown up along with Posen to consider what is really going on out there beyond frilly cocktail dresses.

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