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Hakaan A/W11

We saw a masculine turn from the Turkish designer at the start of Paris Fashion Week

Hakaan is a man of few words but it’s plain to see how he likes his women. Controlled, sleek and sexy, adjectives that have characterized his relatively short span of collections but this season, it’s softened up and become more fluid. “It’s a little more masculine than the last collection. Over time, my mood has progressed to become more loose and comfortable – more about the real women today,” explains Hakaan via an interpreter. Cue a look at the loose tailoring of the 80s/90s in a high-contrast palette of black, red, softening to shades of cream and grey.

From last season’s hip pelmets that jutted out in an angular way, we had dresses with flippy kilt-esque skirts, wool jumpsuits cut dangerously low at the back and cashmere coats that enveloped rather than hugged, addressing the needs of Hakaan’s version of “real women”. Still the sex is still evidently abound and however soft and seductive a pair of louche trousers are, there’s no getting away from the erogenous zone of the midriff and the side of the ribcage revealed with cut-outs that has the designer affirming that it’s all “still sexy but controlled.”

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