When it comes to trends for Autumn Winter 2011, the Iceberg show in Milan yesterday seemed to tick all the right boxes. The collection revealed plenty of patchworked mongolian fur, beading and of course, masculine nods such as tweed jackets with popped collars and tapered trousers. The label’s creative director Paolo Gerani attributed those to the influence of the charismatic character Maria Schenider portrays in “Last Tango in Paris”.
But of course, it wouldn’t be a complete nod to the winter trends, if there were no 60s references in sight – the A-line, princess shapes that we’ve already seen so brilliantly explored at Bottega Veneta or Prada. This time, the retro reference gained momentum in a beaded long-sleeved tunic, which - alongside the immaculately tailored suits - proved to be one of the highlights.
Dazed Digital: Can you tell us more about this season’s inspiration? Paolo Gerani: I wanted to stick to the sportswear feel that’s key to Iceberg, but also combine it with a more 70s feel. That’s why I picked Maria Schneider as my muse. In “Last Tango in Paris”, she’s a little bit bourgeois, but very transgressive and daring at the same time. Her unique style inspired the first outfit for example – a wool suit that’s very masculine, but reveals intricate beading on the collar.
DD: What other masculine elements did you use in the collection? Paolo Gerani: You find them in the tailored coats and jackets, especially the ones at the end of the show. I love to see women in masculine clothes. At the same time, you have to be really careful when exploring a theme like this, so it’s very important to keep the mood sensual with little details such as a coloured sleeve underneath the jacket or a beaded placket.
DD: There was a lot of embroidery in the show… Paolo Gerani: Well, embroidery is something that Italians love! In this case, we used a lot of mixed materials including pallettes and large Swarovski stones.
DD: What’s your favourite outfit from the show? Paolo Gerani: The grey pantsuit!