Another fun and playful collection for the MAN presentation from Thom Murphy, with a new take on puffa jackets, hoods and jogging pants
Once again the New Power Studio presentation, and collection, stood out as being one that brought together a lot of well thought out references in a fun, wearable yet directional way. The label's staples were still in there – heavyweight crew-neck sweats, updated jogging pants, two piece elements and detailing – but this collection took a step forwards, bringing together the previous seasons and adding something fresh. As always Thom Murphy's catwalk show had a surprise element to it, this time round in the shape of plastic body parts attached to a couple of the models and the debut of a four or five-year-old boy walking the runway in full one piece outfit, with burning incense sticks attached to his hood.
Dazed Digital: What was your theme this season?
Thom Murphy: It was The Last Dance, which was based around Northern hen nights, and carnival. I was looking a lot at Haiti carnival for instance. The last day before lent is carnival, and the hen night is the night before you get married so it was kind of about your last night of freedom.
DD: What references did that inspire?
Thom Murphy: Well the priests references definitely and also the incense which we sent down on some of the models was in a way about religious rituals. There was also an idea of gender swapping and partying in a way that came from the hen nights.
DD: Where did you get the colours from?
Thom Murphy: We actually did a lot of bleaching and a lot of the colours that you saw is how a black fabric reacts to bleach. So the pink cords were actually a pair if black cords that we bleached originally. The velvet with the tiger stripes is actually bleach applied to velvet that then turns that brown colour.
DD: A lot of your pieces have some level of sportswear influence. Where does that originate for you?
Thom Murphy: First and foremost it is my background growing up in Liverpool in the 80s. The boom time for football causals. That is a common thread that goes through it but there are other things in there. It's almost like a sense of character with the boy, people wear sportswear and have been doing so for years, that is nothing to do with actually playing sport. I really like that idea.