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Cooperative Designs A/W11

Taking tips from 90s dance scenes, Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hagemann paired hooded shawls with military khakis and striped jumpsuits

The knitwear duo showed a presentation of their latest collection in a series of underground vaults just off London's Strand. The collection itself took a turn back to the original signature style of the label, with a real edge added to a slightly over sized and comfortable feel. Looking at 90s dance music culture the two designers, Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hagemann at Cooperative Designs, did their own take on looks from that time. Striped jumpsuits in super loose knit featured with shawls and hoods alongside bobble and beanie hats. The mainly dark tones, grey, black, browns, military khaki and rich navy blue, were accented with the occasional splash of bright colour in the form of yellows and even neon orange. The results have a defined old school urban edge to them and are definitely reminiscent of an age where white gloves and high vis waistcoats were on the dance floor.

Dazed Digital: So how do you feel about the collection? Are you pleased with everything?
Annalisa Dunn:
Yeah definitely, I think we both feel like we both have had a lot of fun with this collection and it has all turned out well, we hope.

DD: How have you moved on from last season?
Dorothee Hagemann:
I think of course you really have to take into account the seasonal change and the way you are going to approach that. Obviously with knitwear that is something you really have to take into consideration. We also decided to go back to our roots a bit I guess, go back to when we were a few years younger. We also took back our signature a little bit with that sort of slouchy feel.

DD: What was it that took you down that route?
Annalisa Dunn:
I think we both got quite nostalgic, yes we definitely went on a big nostalgia trip with this collection. We watched East 17 'It's Alright' which kind of took us back a lot. Then it started being about the 90s club scene. We used to go to a lot of Drum n' Bass nights, Dorothee in Berlin and myself in London.
Dorothee Hagemann: Almost like the days when we used to have fun.

DD: Did you have someone in mind when you were designing the collection?
Dorothee Hagemann:
Cooperative Designs has always been about strong women, that sort of cool not so girly girly style. That definitely played a part again this season.

DD: Do you have any iconic women that you always look to?
Annalisa Dunn:
I always love Helena Bonham Carter actually, even though she always gets ripped for her taste. She is completely nuts but she does always look amazing.