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Proenza Schouler A/W11

Clashing prints and Native American patterns dominated the collection with a touch of the duo's signature modern edginess

As Wednesday drew to a close, one of New York Fashion Weeks most exciting double acts took to the catwalk. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez showed print based collection that drew heavily on Native American patterns, digitally re-mastered to fit with the  design duo's modern take on womenswear. Starting off with a bit of deconstructed tailoring and coats that had detachable furs as bottom halves, we the moved on to one of the main themes; cut out zig zig patterned dresses in multi coloured nuances, but never bright or vulgar; always in subtle and earthly tones.

Mustard yellow and burgundy red dominated but there were a few slim black silk dresses as well. A lot of the pieces were panelled and bonded together, testifying to an extensive craftsmanship. The prints clashed, the skirts were frilly, knitwear came double breasted, and shearling leather coats had a shiny wax surface. It was great. As a slightly more formal injection we saw a structured black coat with a deep evening jacket shawl collar, which was only out done by a trio of dresses towards the end with a patterned velour on the top that changed into a see through negligé fabric further down.

Dazed Digital: What was your starting point for the collection?
Proenza Shouler:
It was quite vague, but after the last season the two of us went on a bit of a road trip and flew into Santa Fe and rented a car. Without knowing it, we took a bunch of ideas with us back from there. 

DD: Where did you end up going?
Proenza Shouler:
All through New Mexico, Arizona, Utah, in to Colorado and then Wyoming and Yellowstone.

DD: What did you bring back from there in terms of ideas...
Proenza Shouler:
It got us interested in all of these early American and Native cultures, which we started researching - especially their fabrics and techniques. Cherokee Indian blankets, for example.

DD: So the blankets were your initial inspiration then...
Proenza Shouler:
Yeah they got us started but we wanted a digital feeling so we pixelated all of them and had them woven as wool jacquards.  

DD: Do you have any favourite pieces in the show?
Proenza Shouler:
I really like the macrame skirts, they arrived from India today. I also like the knitted looks, they're knitted with leather yarn which gives them tread feeling.

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