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Thom Browne Womenswear A/W11

Eclectic Brit heritage via fur trimmings and brogue heels seeped into the stunning collection set in a convent-esque venue

Thom Browne could move into showbiz - no one puts on a show like this NYC designer! His women's Autumn Winter presentation was no exception. After having showed a horse and hounds inspired Moncler collection in Milan and a 18th century food feast in Paris, Browne moved the focus onto a semi-religious setting in New York's Public Library for his first womenswear show. After the models had had their nun robes removed by alter boys, they walked around the magnificent room dressed in white/green checks and red, navy blue and white colour combos, which is the standard Thom Browne look.

The silhouette was often cocoon shaped with rounded tops and skirts. A few pieces were layered with what looked like fish scale flounces, and so tight at the bottom that the models were only able of taking baby steps. Grey and see through latex appeared, but mostly we saw luxe wool and cashmere. A Prince of Wales check and brogue heels hammered home the Brit heritage of the Browne look, but it was the navy blue capes with brown fur trimmings that impressed the most...

Dazed Digital: There was a clear semi-religious convent look there - what started it all?
Thom Browne:
Visually, in this room, I knew it was gonna look pretty cool. I always like playing with some sort of typical convention or idea and turning it over.

DD: I've seen three of your imaginative shows now in just a few weeks - how do you keep it up?
Thom Browne: This is the easist bit of it all, the rest of the work is the hard bit!

DD: Tell me about the shapes, there were a some cocoon-like silhouettes...
Thom Browne:
It's a mix of my men's tailoring and architectural construction of clothing. Some of these pieces are seriously constructed... 

DD: Do you have a favourite piece in the collection?
Thom Browne:
I love them all equally, I though I nailed all of it... 

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