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Henrik Vibskov A/W11

Cocoon-like structures in heavy leathers and wool at Vibskov formed the highlight of Copenhagen Fashion Week

Henrik Vibskov is always the centre piece of Copenhagen Fashion Week and a show you have to see to believe. This time the dark references of the collection - called 'The Eat' - gave nightmarish visions of isolation and a society trapped in a cocoon. Apart from the horrors inflicted upon us by the installation, the collection was less threatening and consisted of prison-like stripes mixed with heavy materials such as leather and colour patches, used in a combo of hunting green wool. You could feel the survival structure present in the forms and materials of the clothes while the ever-present feature of burnt colours and nudes were a minor detail incorporated between cold shades and heavy coats.

Dazed Digital: What was the inspiration for this collection?
Henrik Vibskov: 'The Eat' is about staging a dinner-like scenery, but actually not about food. It's about unfolding the components and the components themselves that are interesting.  It is a precise mechanic systematized organisation or environment, a sort of claustrophobic regime that is presented. At 'The Eat' the spectator will be exposed to blown up cocoons, hung up in slaughterhouse-like transportation rags. In each of the cocoons there is a survival kit, a number of basic remedies for being.

The colors are alarming and synthetic, the people attending 'The Eat' are anonymous and their views and actions are controlled and fixed. It is not a noble dinner or a celebration, it is a description of a dystopian environment or atmosphere, familiar to a prisoner's canteen or a labor camp. With references to films like Fahrenheit 451, 1984 or Brazil, 'The Eat' is a critical, dark and at times satirical tale. 

DD: What will the difference be between the show in Paris and the one in Copenhagen? 
Henrik Vibskov: In Paris, we only show men's and also had a smaller location. The show took place in the library of a school, which added a certain old world charm to the show, which fit really well. In Copenhagen, we'll show both men's and women's and have more space, we can enlarge the installation quite a lot. We'll also present my first three fragrances called TYPE.

DD: You also play music besides designing, how do you balance these two creative sides? 
Henrik Vibskov: 
It's all pretty much the same for me like freestyling in jazz music - I grab things, that are around me and integrate them in my work, being it music, art, clothing or fragrances.

DD: Your shows are always very atmospheric and dreamlike, do you think that comes from your time at Central Saint Martins? 
Henrik Vibskov: CSM has certainly encouraged me to follow my ideas and be brave about them, but they didn't dictate the way things should be.

DD: Is Copenhagen the visual background for your overall inspiration in everything you do? 
Henrik Vibskov: I have to travel a lot but Copenhagen is a good base for me.