Sleek bubble knitted v-necks and wide flared trousers gave a smart edge to a subtly eccentric dandy collection
The sleek and dandy-esque style of Lanvin's latest collection was, as usual, characterised by the subtle colours and texture of the fabrics. Wearing hats, the models streamed down the Palais de Tokyo catwalk in fine knit trench coats, wide trousers and croc skin loafers. Except for the usual shiny tones of blue and grey, we saw a gorgeous mustard yellow jacket and plum red trousers. Jackets in general were often cropped and sometimes came layered on top of coats.
An abstract paint print was visible on coats and suits, and another exciting detail from Lucas Ossendrijver (and Alber Elbaz) was the thin wool roll necks sticking up from underneath the shirts. A bubble knitted V-neck impressed but it was the last two outfits that won the last few undecided over. Very widely flared trousers with a white shirt under firstly a red and secondly a dark green velour jacket. Very smart and sleek, very Lanvin.
Dazed Digital: What would you say was the main theme?
Lucas Ossendrijver: We wanted to bring together classic pieces with modernity. When you think of classic pieces you think of boring and traditional fashion, while you associate modern clothes harsh and cool. We try and achieve tension between the two - and where there's tension there's energy and that's what fashion is all about.
DD: And where on the catwalk did we see those pieces?
Lucas Ossendrijver: We had a crocodile leather loafer, which is extremely classic, and they were mixed with heavy hiking boots, which are quite technical. They're opposites. We also have the tailoring which is cut in a sportswear kinda way. many jackets are closed with magnets instead of buttons.
DD: Is there also a contrast in volume between the wide trousers and the slim tailoring?
Lucas Ossendrijver: Yes exactly. Doing a collection is like cooking; you have all these elements, but in the end they need to be mixed to create a flavour.
DD: How would you describe the collection?
Lucas Ossendrijver: Quite linear and severe, they're really dressed up, the whole body is covered; the hands, the necks.
DD: Do you have a fave piece?
Lucas Ossendrijver: The camel coat with the fox tail underneath.