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Dries Van Noten Menswear A/W11

The Belgian designer brought a strong use of colours and fur to layered pieces in pseudo-military themes

With his headline slot on Thursday evening - not too early, not too late - the Belgian designer again set the bar high for his fellow Parisian fashion colleagues. Having done a slightly harder and tougher collection than normal last season, Dries now went back to one of his favourite themes: pure elegance. Using a lot of white, navy and beige, Dries launched into a parade of collars and lapels crafted with surgical detail expertise. Layered lapels were added and secondary collars could be seen underneath coats and suit jackets. Khaki and plum red garments complimented the great beige/white and black/navy colour combos.

Mohair bombers fought for attention with over sized coat shoulders, and slim trousers cropped just above the ankle took on wide cargo pants, often teamed with double breasted jackets. Fur was added and towards the end, older military ranks in gold was visible as embroidery on jackets. Upon leaving, there was no doubt that there featured a vast amount of great clothes in this Dries Van Noten collection, but what the Antwerp-based designer has to be praised the most for is his sensitive yet impeccable approach to matching colours.

Dazed Digital: What did you want to say with this collection?
Dries Van Noten:
I wanted something glamorous, something heroic, just elegant clothes - but done in a masculine way. I was looking at Bowie and Cocteau, and there was a little bit of uniform in there as well...

DD: There was a big focus on collars, right? There were loads of double collars!
Dries Van Noten:
Yes, double collars but also double garments. Often the lining had a collar so it could be worn as an inside our outside coat.

DD: And quite often you added fur...
Dries Van Noten:
It was rabbit fur, which I don't normally use but it was nice to add that feminine touch

DD: What other fabrics did you use?
Dries Van Noten:
Mohair that are woven in one piece and an amazing one with camel hair on the outside and plastic on the inside - so it's a plasticised camel hair!

DD: Do you have a fave piece in the show?
Dries Van Noten:
Difficult to say but the second jacket stands out, it was the double breasted jacket with the white lapel.

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