Paul Helbers and Marc Jacobs focused their new collection on a theme of 'journeys' for young adolescents into the adult world
The Autumn Winter collection from Studio Director Paul Helbers and his Creative Director, Marc Jacobs, pursued the theme of a journey. Actually two journeys, one of which was a bit more literal, an 'On the Road' type of travelling. The other sartorially depicted the journey of a young adolescent into the adult world. Louis Vuitton originally being a luxury luggage manufacturer, all this made sense. And why change a winning team? LV does their brand of functional yet well made cobbler better than any other brand on the same scene.This time around we saw cropped suit jackets, the first one with massive pleats on the bottom half, short jackets in hardened cotton - perfect for testing trips - and comfortable puffa nylon jackets.
In grey, brown and black, the collection included heavy ribbed knits, belted cardigans and suit jackets with hidden buttons and no lapels. Strong orange shades were used as contrast colour, and sometimes mixed with brown for even stronger effect. The soundtrack of repeated laughter couldn't distract the audience from the subtly monogrammed jacket and, especially, all the coats with hanging jackets attached to the waists. It made the audience all excited about journeying somewhere, even if it just ended up being back to Le Marais on the tube...
Dazed Digital: What was the starting point for the collection?
Paul Helbers: A wondering boy who's leaving his house and the idea was a trip through America based on outdoors clothes suitable for that climate but with a David Lynch twist. It was about travelling in the mind from boyhood to man, and a boy that borrows from his parents clothes, uncle's and auntie's clothes as well.
DD: Tell us about the coat that had a second skin of coat hanging down from the waist...
Paul Helbers: That's what I call a travel tail coat. It's like a ceremonial tail coat but in its execution it's an extra layer that can be folded down or added on for extra warmth or protection.
DD: Do you have a favourite piece in the show?
Paul Helbers: The first look, it's a pleated jacket - that's the auntie jacket!