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Photos by Frédérique Dumoulin

Issey Miyake Menswear A/W11

Dai Fujiwara layers distressed leather and chunky knits with the strange recurring theme of 'writers'

In many ways it is left to Issey Miyake to safe guard the traditional Japanese aesthetic. Creative Director Dai Fujiwara has found the right balance between the silhouette the brand has been associated with since its Paris debut in the 1980s, and subtle development that characterises a healthy and forward thinking brand. For its Autumn / Winter show at Place des Vosges, Issey Miyake pulled out structured fabrics and casual suits in loose fits. In a greyish blue, deep purple and black, the show featured stitch details, creased fabrics and clashing prints; all in a day of the Issey Miyake man.

Adding an interesting layer to the show, the models played the role play of an aspiring writer walking the streets of Paris with old school pens as way of communicating. The pen, an over sized pen-inspired broach played a pivotal and intriguing part of both the collection and the show. Check puffa gilets, hiking boots, bum bags, distressed leather, chunky knits and block coloured suits all made this a another strong Issey Miyake show and another small victory for the Japanese aesthetic.

Dazed Digital: Where did the pen obsession come from?
Dai Fujiwara: The pen has an iconic part in our society, especially in recent times as the technology of information moves forward. I need mobile phone and iPad but the pen is stronger than technology.

DD: So it was back to basic for technology versus penmanship, was the collection a back to basic Issey Miyake show?
Dai Fujiwara: Not really, it's more about preserving the DNA than a homage to the archives...

DD: So what would you say is the DNA?
Dai Fujiwara: To wear comfortable clothes!

DD: Do you have a favourite piece in the collection?
Dai Fujiwara: The last jacket, it's got a special pocket for pens by the collar.

Photos by Frédérique Dumoulin

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