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Neil Barrett Menswear A/W11

The monochrome collection featured a naval theme with pea coats, neoprene wet suit bottoms and fisherman's knitwear

Neil Barrett stuck to his sartorial guns yet again this week, showing a monochrome and focused collection inspired by naval staple pieces. During the last day of Milan menswear week we saw pea coats, loads of neoprene wet suit bottoms and fisherman knits. But the trouser silhouette wasn't always slim; several trousers and were wide and often with a stripes along the side. Barrett played with his fabrics when it came to the jackets as some of them were constructed out of two different material blended into one. Fur was a major player - also visible on some of the female models - and Barrett often played it out against formal tailoring for maximal effect.

Dazed Digital: Tell us about the casting, you had both male and female models...
Neil Barrett: The idea was to make the casting look like a group of boys and girls that were just hanging out like a group of friends. 

DD: What influenced the collection?
Neil Barrett: It was centred scuba diving and naval influences and making them feel urban through pea coats, cut up and reconstructed fisherman's knits. Anything to do with the Navy and maritime.  

DD: What sort of techniques did you use?
Neil Barrett: It's all about complicated craftmanship, we bonded leather together and pulled together two different kinds of fabric so it looked like one. We blended the fabrics by holding them together with needles. Subtle, but interesting!

DD: Do you have a favourite piece in the show?
Neil Barrett: The shearling bomber jacket. It's made out of five different kinds of leather!

See all the exclusive coverage from Menswear AW11>>