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John Varvatos Menswear A/W11

The Milanese military academy was graced by traveller chic models in tailored jackets and quirky neckties

Sophisticated and rustic was the theme of the John Varvatos Autumn Winter collection shown in Milan this weekend. Varvatos chose the Milanese military academy as his venue, where models armed with traveling bags walked on a train-track runway in front of an old station clock. Tailored single and double-breasted jackets were worn over chunky long cardigans, hand-knitted out of alpaca and wool, to create a look that combined old-school elegance with modern-day wearability. Whilst the tailoring of the pieces was fluid and relaxed, the look was given an unexpected twist with studs and hook 'n eye fastenings instead of buttons. Layers were key to the traveller theme with shirts, sweaters, jackets and waistcoats all piled upon each other and tied with a thick leather belt. Slouchy tailored suits of metallic thread were paired with rough woollen sweaters, all in a muted palette of chocolates, deep reds and black. Accessories drove home the theme, with each outfit accompanied by scarves, neck-ties, fingerless driving gloves, blacked-out sunglasses and trilby hats. 

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