Andreas Kronthale and Dame Westwood went for an intellectual look with mismatching prints, stretchy tweed suits and deconstructed Preppy shapes
Yesterday in Milan, Dame Vivienne Westwood pulled off a scholar collection inspired by intellectual students. But the high brow attitude was only visible in Westwood's characteristic way of de-formalising the clothes, as in the oxford shirt with standard Westwood over sized collars, the club blazer-inspired bomber jacket, rugby shirts and the cropped trench coat with made-up university crests. Overall the show was kept smart; double breasted jackets and three-piece suits came out on cigar smoking models (who all had on red lipstick for some reason). As always the prints and checks clashed and heart prints shared the stage with skulls, and the ever-present message - 'Climate Change is Not an Illusion' - was seen as a gigantic back drop.
Dazed Digital: What was the general idea and your starting point?
Andreas Kronthaler: We were inspired by English country clubs and we created these logos, labels and uniforms for such places. It was really an English Gentlemen's club, like a cricket or golf club. But when we casted the boys it all changed direction a bit. They were a bit more ladish and not classic beauties. They were a bit like young men just about to go to university.
DD: So you started with a fairly preppy attitude and then it went a bit young, crazy and wild. In what items can we see that transformation?
Andreas Kronthaler: For example, even though it's old, when you put a suit with a sweater. It's quite a lot to do with matching, the English are very good with just putting two different items together that doesn't necessarily work.
DD: How would you describe the customer?
Andreas Kronthaler: Boys without girls - they are not married yet!
DD: Do you have a fave piece in the show?
Andreas Kronthaler: The suits, I love the suits...
DD: What kind of fabrics were you working with?
Andreas Kronthaler: We copied some English tweed but made them lighter and more stretchy so that the items are more suitable for our world.