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Costume National Menswear A/W11

'Rebel Tailoring' with laser cut fabric and no seams characterised Ennio Capasa's latest Milan show

Again working different styles of modern tailoring, Ennio Capasa’s Costume National this season took on the rebellious epoch of the late 60s and 70s. It wasn’t entirely about punk, more the idea of mixing the new found sartorial freedom of that time with tailored forward thinking. Using laser cut fabrics without seams, the ‘Rebel Tailoring’ collection featured suits with zip details, tartan patterns and sleeveless biker jackets over formal jackets. No shirts and ties appeared and Capasa focused on his attention on thin knits instead, some with stripes on, other with diagonal patterns. The final piece married it all as a formal tuxedo jacket made out of fisherman’s knitwear.

Dazed Dazed: What inspired the collection?
Ennio Capasa: It’s called Rebel Tailoring and I like that kind of fashion for men: traditional but still innovative.

DD: Looking at the mood board behind you with all the images of old music and style icons, what time period are we talking about?
Ennio Capasa: End of the 1970s.  

DD: Only knitwear and no shirts...
Ennio Capasa: Yes, no ties and shirts, it’s more free in that sense!

DD: How would you describe the contrasts between, for example, pinstripe suits and biker jackets?
Ennio Capasa: I like to mix comfort and formality. It’s about what we are and what we want to be.

DD:  Tell me about the technique behind the collection...
Ennio Capasa: There are no stitching on the pieces and we use laser cut fabrics, so the tailoring is traditional but with completely new and exciting techniques. 

DD: Favourite piece?
Ennio Capasa: The last piece, the tuxedo jacket made out of knitwear.

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