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Issey Miyake Womenswear S/S11

Dai Fujiwara injected Japanese ghosts into his latest collection

As Alfred Hitchcock's voice opened the show with his treatise on ghosts, it quite aptly suited the first portion of the show which was a monochrome exercise in light and loose silhouettes in the usual array of specially treated fabrics. There was almost a naive way to the way contrast between black and white was created such as giant pailettes hanging off a silk camisole or white squares planted over a waistcoat. The ghost that Fujiwara had in mind to live in and around the collection is playful and one that exists in Japanese mythology. Then with a straw hat and a woodgrain print, the collection snapped out of its ghostly mode and we were into checks, Thai-style multi-coloured batik, dip dyed geometrics and a monochrome print that was built up with florals and circles haphazardly placed on the fabric. There were all the usual fabric tricks that Fujiwara upholds at Issey Miyake but perhaps this was at once a quietened and complex effort, thanks to those pesky ghosts.