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Roland Mouret Womenswear S/S11

With his name back in his grasp, Mouret strikes a fresh note with this collection

Roland Mouret's career has been defined by moment-making dresses as well as stages where he lost and regained his name. With this triumph as well as a London store that will open in Mayfair, the dose of 'luck' as he calls it on the press notes, rejuvenated his aesthetic. Yes, there were plnety of dress options that Mouret has made his name with. However, in addition there were also plenty of separates that have been given individual names. In particular a camisole that goes by the name of Fritz with a contrasting bust panelling detail drew the eye in, centring the loose shirts and swinging sleeve jackets. The hints of Japanese influence infiltrated into the collection as soft touches - in the kimono sleeves, a tufted Ikat jacquard, the loose style of trouser as well as a moss green killick print - all of which contributed to a sense of zen where everything flowed with ease, perhaps echoing Mouret's own sigh of relief at showing under his own name again. Mouret dress lovers will have an array of choices too with one-shouldered shifts, deep v-neck gowns and parachute silk (a popular fabric choice for the season in general) billowing dresses, all touched by Mouret's lighter and looser hand for the season.