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Rochas Womenswear S/S11

Marco Zanini gets rustic for another decade-led journey

Distilling what Rochas is has been a bit of a trip for Marco Zanini. From 60s go-go dancing hotties we come to a more rural and rustic approach that recall housewives that could be living in anytime from the 30s to the 50s in far removed Scandivanian villages. This played out in printed headscarves, vintage lifted scarf prints that were on cardigans and dresses, floral pyjama sets, crino underskirts and a curiously Amish method of styling that pervaded the collection. Then came the eveningwear portion of Rochas, where one expects persuasive ideas from the house and riffing off the idea of a country wedding trosseau, there were satin dresses in all teal, cream and midnight blue in the classic early 20th century shapes - floor-length bias gowns, dropped waisted flapper dresses and tea dresses - which contributed to a late 40s elegance that plays up the house's heritage.