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Peter Pilotto Womenswear S/S11

The design duo take an unexpected step away from their galactic prints for predominantly blue and white layered dresses

After becoming known as prime exponents of intergalactic digital prints, Austrian design duo, Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos of Peter Pilotto made a break from their trademark this season to brilliant results. This time around, their prints were derived from images of the moon and human musculature and rendered onto panels of silk screen which floated in varying lengths from the body. In a cool palette of putty, eggshell blue and nudes, there was a sense of ease and freedom with the collection, this time showcasing column dresses and longer lengths. While the duo are famed for their skill with draping, there was a greater emphasis on it this time around, the fabric almost like liquid wrapping itself around the body. In a preview of the collection, they told Sarah Mower that two key texts for the collection were Cynthia Macadams book on feminists, Emergence and Dean Fidelman’s The Stonemasters: California Rock Climbers in the Seventies. Even without knowing that, one could ascertain a certain strength and toughness in Pilotto’s woman.

Dazed Digital: With this collection it seemed more like a move away from digital print - was that a conscious decision?

Peter Pilotto: Yeah absolutely. We find it exciting to be able to work in a different way and to work with screenprinting and to be able to choose colours in a different way. We wanted to find time to move back to that because in a way more and more people are using it.

DD: How did the book on Rock Climbers influence the collection?

Peter Pilotto: We found this book on the rock climbers and we loved the sportiness and the energy and colours and the braveness. At the same time we wanted to find a different kind of elegance and find new silhouettes.

DD: The colours and textures remind me of rock faces

Peter Pilotto: Not necessarily we did not think of nature as much as we did before. It was all about colours that’s what our prints are about.

DD: And where does the book Emergence by Cynthia Macadams ( a famed photography book documenting feminists) come in?

Peter Pilotto: We loved it. The most important images came from this amazing book about these strong, inspiring women.

DD: You seem to be showing longer lengths this season

Peter Pilotto: Yeah but at the same time we have these longer panels so we could contrast with the sexiness of shorter lengths.

DD: Is the collaborative process second nature to you now?

Peter Pilotto: It always was. It’s a challenge to work with somebody but then you can reflect and push each other.