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N. Hoolywood Womenswear S/S11

The Japanese menswear designer Daisuke Obana celebrates ten years of his brand with his first presentation in New York

Daisuke Obana has always had an obsession with American culture, something that was rooted in Obana's vintage store 'Go-Getter' with his obsession with details from the 70s and 80s clothing. To mark a ten year milestone in the establishment of his menswear label N. Hoolywood (which has spawned numerous secondary lines in Japan), Obana finally decided to makes his own American dream come true with his first presentation in New York. Aptly, Obana's set-up was something instantly iconic and certainly rooted in memories of American cop shows and Hollywood action scenes. The collection 'Police Picture' takes inspiration from mugshot snaps in the early 20th century and to support this narrrative, a live action mug shot line-up took place at the presentation with each 'convict' trooping out one by one. The clothes as always place emphasis on high quality fabrics that are given a purposely down trodden twist. There were subtle flickers of prisoner's uniforms of yesteryear in the collection, involving stripes, plays with prison numberplates, a muted palette and a relaxed fit to everything that stopped formality from creeping in. Guided by the early 20th century's period parameters, Obana never took the theme into the prison territory that we know today but instead used the idea of a mugshot to create characters who donned outfits that had a desirable lived-in and well-weathered quality.