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Raf Simons Menswear S/S11

In an mostly white collection, Raf Simons paid homage to Martin Margiela and refrenced his own archive

In what appeared to be a deserted bank, Raf Simons put on an almost all-white collection, using the loose silhouette that made his name years ago. But it was restricted to the bottoms, as most tops came out slim and tight. Jackets and coats were often sleeveless and featured over sized zips both front and back. The white shade was matched with mint green and other pastels. Hinting back towards past Raf collections, T-shirts carried text messages and images of a sexual nature. Cerise was the strongest colour and it came onstage in the shape of a miniskirt. Several outfits had such a garment on top of trousers, which added to the body tight silhouette. Lastly there was a formal segment and it was quite telling that the very last outfit was a normal and plain suit with a shirt and tie combo. The very look that we have come to associate Raf Simons with of late.

Dazed Digital: What was the red thread going through the show?
Raf Simons: Exactly 20 years ago I saw my first fashion show, and it was the third show of Martin Margiela, the all white one. It’s in homage to Martin, but also revisiting our own past. I wanted it to be about liberation in a way as well. There’s been a lot of liberation of late – socially, psychologically, culturally – but I have a feeling that the garments were stuck.

DD: Where did all the zips fit in with that?
Raf Simons: They were a reference to earlier work, but the open backs were also a link to hospital robes and women’s couture pieces.

DD: Favourite piece:
Raf Simons: That’s difficult. Probably the big trousers that I did 12 years ago, and now, after a decade of slim trousers, it feels fresh again.