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Alexis Mabille Menswear S/S11

The French designer expands his vision to include desert inspiration and the paintings of David Hamilton in stellar SS' 11 performance

There are always major elements of glitter and glamour in an Alexis Mabille show and sure, the SS ’11 collection was no exception. But it was also a show that pushed forward and explored new silhouettes and colour palettes. It’s easy to get bogged down in a well-known pattern of style (why change a winning team?) so it was very refreshing to see Mabille try looser and longer pieces in predominately beige and brown shades.

Stripy jeans and cargo pants were the bottoms of choice, except for a segment of silver swimwear, and many tops came as loose tunics or ponchos. Gladiator sandals were everywhere, and so were daises, either strewn in the model’s hair or attached to jackets. A few pieces, including an intricate tailored jacket, came full of zips, allowing the wearer to take off pieces. There was a feeling of desert hiking or safari, which was great, but it isn’t an Alexis Mabille collection without a few bow ties and some glitter tops, and they came out towards the end.

Dazed Digital: What was the main idea behind the collection?
Alexis Mabille: I wanted it to be very quiet and soft. In the summer you just want to be comfortable with what you wear.

DD: Any red threads going through the collection?
Alexis Mabille: I don’t like the idea of themes. I have ideas and feelings in my head. It was about sporty jersey elements mixed with more tailored pieces. I like the paintings of David Hamilton, which partly inspired the hair and make up

DD: The silhouette was quite loose this time?
Alexis Mabille: Yes, it’s like poetry when you walk; everything is floating!

DD: Favourite piece?
Alexis Mabille: Brown and beige stripy jeans, the poncho at the end, and the jacket with daises attached to it.