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Loewe Womenswear A/W10

Ava Gardner's time spent in Madrid informs this sophisticated collection.

PhotographyMorgan O'Donovan

After last season's elegant take on sportswear, Stuart Vevers takes a grown-up route that updates the timeless classics inspired by Ava Gardner living in Madrid. The focus was on chic and precise tailoring that translated into demure shift dresses, two piece suits and dress and jacket suits. More playful elements were injected in the form of holographic sequins, a big cat safari print as well as the shoes that were adorned with fur at the back of the heel. Fur held pulled pieces together as tippets and collars as well as a ponyskin shirt contrasted with plaid. This being Loewe, leatherwork was still very much the main story injected into lace-covered pieces, a cropped leather jacket, a more risque leather a-line pinafore dress and of course, the accessories.

Dazed Digital: The Loewe woman has definitely grown-up this season - what prompted this shift of mood?
Stuart Vevers: It's just one of those instinctive things. It just felt really right We started the season focusing on tailoring and looking at pushing our pattern cutting. It led us to look at tailoring and how to approach a modern two-piece suit and how to approach a dress-jacket woman and that just naturally felt more grown-up. That said, the Loewe woman has always been very pulled-together.

DD: I got a chic, 50s Parisian vibe from the collection - what was your starting point for this?
Stuart Vevers: Part of the inspiration came from Ava Gardner living in Madrid for a decade in the fifties and she was a Loewe customer. That led us to those references. We wanted the austere, chic and sharp tailoring mixed with feminine and opulent things.

DD: There were still playful touches that you have injected into Loewe like the safari print in pink?
Stuart Vevers: It was a big cat illustration and we used it in quite feminine pieces mixing with boyfriend jackets. Like the holographic sequins too and even the fur collar was quite playful.

DD: What did you push this season in terms of leatherwork?
Stuart Vevers: This season we have those pieces for the connosseur. Like the updated trench with the skinny belt and the circular cut sleeves. Like last season, we want to push for newness and this season, it was about mixing unexpected materials like putting lace on top of leather in the dresses that gave them structure and sheen, as well as a sexier, foxier feeling.

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