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Ann Demeulemeester Womenswear A/W10

The queen of darkness turns to plumage and leather plaits.

PhotographyMorgan O'Donovan

There's no need to wax lyrical about Ann Demeulemeester's specific niche in dark beauty. We've seen the trouser suits that look a little undone before and familiarity is the key to Demeulemeester's longevity. This season though, in addition to those staples, there's a more opulent spirit seen in the feathers which come thrusting out in collars on jackets and alson on the front in full plummage. A strong shade of scarlet red comes dropping through on leather jackets, a cape and a belted trench. Then a leather plait motif is introduced draping the necks and the fronts of tops, in Demeulemeester's version of fringing. 

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