There's no need to wax lyrical about Ann Demeulemeester's specific niche in dark beauty. We've seen the trouser suits that look a little undone before and familiarity is the key to Demeulemeester's longevity. This season though, in addition to those staples, there's a more opulent spirit seen in the feathers which come thrusting out in collars on jackets and alson on the front in full plummage. A strong shade of scarlet red comes dropping through on leather jackets, a cape and a belted trench. Then a leather plait motif is introduced draping the necks and the fronts of tops, in Demeulemeester's version of fringing.