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Haider Ackermann Womenswear A/W10

This protective collection sends out all the right Ackermann traits.

PhotographyMorgan O'Donovan

Haider Ackermann doesn't need to trifle too much with the strong points he has built up over the last few seasons. Instead, Ackermann continued to hone in on what he does best by sending out all those 'staples' that make women feel protected and walk around with a steeled and silent beauty. This translates into suede and leather jackets that drape, knot and twist at the front and cinched in at the waist paired with loose trousers tucked into boots. Bias cut floor-length skirts are slashed to the thigh at front and are worn with jackets or waistcoats that are built up around the hips, creating an non-fussy bustle. Long capes in velvet and wool have touches of Ackermann's twists as well as a slight Dickensian quality. This time round, a laser-cut leather recreating lace patterns is introduced as a new texture, leaving colours to stay on neutral ground in browns, greys and black. The leather lace builds up into more vulnerable-looking looks such as the final dress that delicately clads the model, exposing and looking like it might disentegrate, a continuation of last season's semi-nude ending.

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