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Issey Miyake Womenswear A/W10

Mathematical proportions give added structure to Dai Fujiwara's collection.

PhotographyMorgan O'Donovan

In someone else's hands, the rainbow awve of knitted loops interlocking with each other at the beginning of the show could have looked haphazard but Dai Fujiwara guided them to look like perfect assemblings of colour and shape. A rigorous structure informed by mathematic theories continued for the rest of the collection which gave a sleeker impression than past collections. The coats and jackets that were rounded off in different areas or emphasised with curved lines added much polish. Technical fabric feats were still the things that pushed the collection with added textures like criss cross knits, plastic feathers, fringing, ribbing and a final black organdy coat adorned with cut-out stars that wafted along.
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