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Gareth Pugh Womenswear A/W10

Soft lines and hard materials evolve Pugh's aesthetic.

PhotographyMorgan O'Donovan

Strong and precise chevron lines marked out the inklings of what Gareth Pugh was going for in his latest collection that in some ways fortified the shapes of his last collection. Replacing wispy grey chiffon though was the armour of neoprene-backed leather that fitted the body in a flared out coat. The menswear ensemble that ensued though marked out a vulnerability and subtle glamour nor seen in before by way of cuban heels, softly flared trousers and later on, voluminous pleated ones. This was Pugh once again playing with pre-conceived notions of the tough by unexpectedtly contrasting his choiceof materials and palette with silhouettes like an obi belted coat that drapes at the back or bias cut floor length gown with an attached shawl. Essentially the movement that Pugh created in his last collection was also evident here, emphasised by newly introduced materials such as a crochet and the draped chains that hung from both long and short dresses, dripping with intent.

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