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Photography by Benoit Soualle

Felipe Oliveira Baptista Womenswear A/W10

A clean and quiet take on The Pioneers.

Felipe Oliveira Baptista's 'wall' is plain to see through his Facebook page and his inspirations are laid out in the shape of  photos of aviators, polar mammals, desert landscapes, an abstracted bust shot by Nick Knight and a portrait of J.G. Ballard. Still with such an eclectic wall, we didn't expect such a clearcut vision of his idea of pioneers. From last season's feathers and punk theatrics, Baptista turned to moulding clean shapes that began with aviator-inspired silhouettes, accessorised by layered fringed boots and goggles. Precision was key to letting the shapes do the talking as dresses with topograph layers added subtle detailing and leather inserts in the sleeves of dresses looked a little like a relaxed take on wetsuits. From Baptista's previous collections where he has strived to create a modern take on couture, we get more viable and versatile wardrobe this season that doesn't sacrifice the elements that he has honed at over the years.

Dazed Digital: What made you turn to these themes of exploration?
Felipe Oliveira Baptista: I started with the word 'pioneer' and I have these stacks of old issues of National Geographic and I saw all of these photos which I wanted to transfer that into a versatile wardrobe. They're reversible and can go from day to night.

Following the ideas of 'pioneer', with the last portion, it started with sheets of colours, making cuts into them and basically reinventing things that are very simple in appearance. I wanted something that was more quiet.

DD: Was that a conscious thing to go pared back?
Felipe Oliveira Baptista: I spent all this time in Morocco and I came back and I had all of these images on my wall and I wanted to translate that quietness into the collection.

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