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Photography by Saga Sigurdardottir

Ashish Womenswear A/W10

Power to Ashishistan

Imagine a Russian school girl, multiply that by a Turkish Kilim rug, then add your gran’s chunkiest knits, cover this in Pop-Art coloured sequins, and there you have Ashish’s AW10 collection. Hard to imagine the contradictory references as a cohesive look, but as the coquettish women shimmered down the runway, the whole concept just made sense! Opening with striped sequin pyjamas, paired with cable knit cardigans, this really took ‘casual glamour’ to the extremes. Cream knits dressed down the teddy bear polka dot printed track bottoms unexpectedly. It then quickly smartened up with knee length shorts, full dirndl skirts and drop pants, all in tweeds.

By far, the most brightly coloured pieces of the show were the long swathes of hand applied sequins which swished past in a dazzling array of patterns. Graphic Aztec prints and pixelated Turkish rugs sum up the Eastern European influence. But it's the surreal trompe l’oeil effect of the cable knit prints that really make you look twice. What is different about this season is that it tells you a story, each piece bringing a new narrative to the scene. We can only wonder how the Ashish fairy tale will unfold.

Dazed Digital: This collection reminded me of Serbian gypsies, what were your inspirations?
Ashish Gupta: The fantasy started when I was looking at photos of all these Anatolian school-girls, who lived around the Black Sea. I was really into that Eastern Europe and Central Asia. I wanted to make it multi cultural, but quite modern, grungy and slightly weird. Kilim rugs also played a big part on the patterns.

DD: Was there a particular interest towards knits this season?
Ashish Gupta: It’s actually new to me. I think a lot of love goes into handmade knitted pieces, which I like because its so anti ‘machine made beautiful cashmere’. I wanted it to be quite tactile.

DD: Was it about redefining the term ‘luxe-loungewear’?
Ashish Gupta: Definitely. I saw a girl at Gard du Nord in Paris, walking around in her pyjamas and a hand made cardigan, which was genius. So I thought of sequin pyjamas, the idea of wearing them to a club, I think that’s so cool.

DD: You’ve moved away from glamorous wedge heels to black leather flats. Was this a conscious decision?
Ashish Gupta: I just thought flats are fresh for now. I really like the idea of a flat shoe with a long length evening dress. I’m also into weird mid calf lengths with a flat shoe, I think its quite sexy and gives it that androgynous look.

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