The new minimals may be forging its way in but you can always count on London to have designers that stick to their aesthetic guns. Julian J Smith has really only just got started having presented at ON|OFF last season where colour blocked cocktail dresses that fused elegant structures with clubby neon brights were shown. This season, the shapes are still very much the same the addition of pieces like a statement-making black bandage padded jacket. A geometric Aztec-inspired print started the show in different cut minidresses, which then developed into colour blocked styles where the print and colour were used quite sparingly which emphasised the sharp cuts of the dresses. Dazed quizzed him a while back about the Julian J Smith look as well as his occupation as both a fashion and costume designer (he has designed some striking stage costumes for Beth Ditto)
Dazed Digital: How would you describe the Julian J. Smith aesthetic? Julian J Smith: I'm really into geometry, graphics, contrast and impact colours. I'm interested in creating collections that are not typically "day" or "evening" . Just cool, strong clothes.
DD: How do you make the distinction between stage costumes and fashion? Julian J Smith: My ready to wear fashion collections are entirely my own creation, and this is the main focus of my business now. Costume work is a more collaborative thing. I discuss with the artists, what they would like to wear. Design wise, one informs the other. I learn more about clothes doing both of these things.