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David Koma Womenswear A/W10

This rising star made a simple yet strong statement that involved zippers and triangles.

TextSusie LauPhotographyKasia Bobula

David Koma has had a phenomenal year where celebrity endorsement has given him the right step up and hasn't made him compromise his vision. For A/W 10-11, it seemed like he was intent on breaking out of employing extreme tactics and more concerned with distilling his ideas with a simpler outcome. This season, it involved sharp triangular lines that juxtaposed with beautifully cut wool and leather dresses in grey, black and camel. Koma couldn't resist metalwork though, the material that propelled his initial collections and for this season, he used zippers in gold, silver and a burnished rainbow finish.

Dazed Digital: It felt like you really pared down the collection - was this a conscious decision?
David Koma: Actually when I started this collection, it just came very naturally and it wasn't planned and it was one dress after another dress. Usually I start the collection from three difference places and then join them. This is how I felt this season - very triangular! The main inspiration was Italian futurism - graphic lines against soft lines of the female body, so combining weird lines and making it all still beautiful.

DD: Where did the zipper motif came from?
David Koma: I just love metal! Each season, I like to find a new texture from metal to create a sculptural feel. I've been developing this kind of techniques for a long time. It felt quite right to put the zippers there as they're quite sharp but has these curvy soft lines at the same time so it was a contrast between hard and soft like the triangular dresses. It's all about my girl really.

DD: Who's your girl then?
David Koma: She's an amazing person! She looks a bit protected. I hope she'll like it!

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