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Proenza Schouler Womenswear A/W10

School's out and we're chilling out, shooting some b-ball in warped plaids and scribble prints.

PhotographyMark Reay

The young are certainly always restless in the eyes of the Proenza Schouler boys. From skating and surfing in S/S 10, we're now on a basketball court at night, inspired by a photograph by the artist Christopher Wool and the collection was an imagning  of all the characters that could be hanging out there. Whilst 'school' sprung out as a dominant theme, this isn't some stuffy boarding school, with riffs on prim school uniforms. These are the rougher-edged kids, street savvy with their graffiti print jeans (made with J Brand) and taking on plaid in a new and warped way. Proportions were sliced and spliced so that jackets were super cropped and fitted and skirts were folded down in reference perhaps to girls who like to spice up their school uniforms by rolling their skirts. Short and flared with emphasis on the thigh high stockings and stacked curved wooden heels which again strengthen their accessories line. There were also super lux takes on the Varsity jacket as well as toggle coats that were anything but childish. What looked like floral sprigged dresses at the end, were actually paint splattered taking the bubble hemmed-dresses away from being overly sweet. We wanted to know what kind of school these kids were from so we spoke to Lazaro Hernandez Jack McCollough to find out.

Dazed Digital: You talked about looking at the Christopher Wool photograph of a basketball court at night and thinking about schoolkids hanging out there - this isn't an Upper Eastside posh school is it?
Lazaro Hernandez  It's some kind of a fucked up school I think! It's not about schoolgirl really. From that photograph we were thinking about all the people who would be hanging out there. A schoolgirl could be one of them but there could also be a messed up kid.

DD: She's a little bit messed up isn't she, a bit prim with a twist?
Lazaro Hernandez: Is she prim?
Jack McCollough: She's a little prim. With the jackets that were cropped I think.
Lazaro Hernandez: But prim feels rebellious now.
Jack McCollough: It's a backlash against all the cliches of leather and aggressiveness. It's almost like a new rebellion I think.

DD: You've taken inspiration from the street and youth in the past two collections - do you think there's a reason for this?
Lazaro Hernandez: We just always looked into what we liked. Sometimes we try and do things based on an idea but we just end up doing something we know
Jack McCollough: It's ultimately what we know.

DD: You always have interesting fabric experimentations in your collections - what did you play with this time?
Jack McCollough: We develop all our stuff at the studio and we really developed a lot this season. We were playing with plaids on the Xerox machine and moving it around and warping them. Lazaro Hernandez: They were curved plaids, going against the straight lines. Then we did paint splatters on the last few dresses.

DD: What was that referencing?
Jack McCollough: We were talking about art school a little I think so that's where they came from

DD: This school sounds awesome.
Lazaro Hernandez: It's our imaginary fantasy school!

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