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Siki Im Womenswear A/W10

The sophomore collection of this ex-Helmut Lang designer makes banking waves.

PhotographyShawn Brackbill

The economy is inevitably still on the minds of designers but not many have taken it on as a theme this season. Up and coming menswear designer Siki Im who used to be a senior designer at Helmut Lang presented his collection entitled 'New Era' where a fictional satire is created about the city workers and bankers, criticising their greedy values yet exploiting their sartorial traits. These are the men that grew up, got jobs on Wall Street and then lost it all. This translated into the clothes as assymetric cashmere felt coats, lapel-less jackets, quilted skirts both long and short paired with assymetric knitwear and quilted trench coats. Leather accessories such as belts, key-chains and suspenders and totes are made with brand 'Made by Eugene' as well as a brogue and oxford shoe made with Wells Stellberger. Together with the newspaper hats and belts and the presentation narrative of office booths, this was a deconstructed interpretation of that lost ex-banker.