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Halston Womenswear A/W10

Marios Schwab's first collection for the label hits a high note.

If there were skeptics that Marios Schwab's own sensibility as a structural designer would jar with Halston's fluid and louche design heritage, then his debut collection for Halston should silence those who say nay. Schwab quickly grasped the distinction between his own label and what he does for Halston without compromising his own design DNA. In this collection of dresses that veer from powdery shades of grey and nude to jewel tones of emerald green and yellow, the movement and freedome that defined Halston's dresses can be seen, albeit formed with a different language, like the epaulettes that encase the body. Jacqueline Raburn was responsible for the organic curved silver jewellery that boldly highlight the lines that Schwab has created for Halston.

Dazed Digital: How did you inject your own signature into the collection as well as referencing Halston's heritage?
Marios Schwab: It's about Halston. It's not about Marios Schwab and it's very important to distinguish the two. When I was first appointed, I went out New York, going clubbing, meeting friends and I wanted to find the right girl for the brand. Then I realised it was not about one single person and it was about many different women with their own personalities, who are open-minded and intellectual and want to have fun. The girl lives the fantasy of fashion and has a positive outlook.
My main inspiration was to mix all of the elements that I love about Halston in one collection but bring a bit of twist.

DD: In terms of these 'twists', I can see that in the materials - can you talk a little bit about them.
Marios Schwab: I tried to make a little labryinth in the clothes that makes a H so that there's a subtle monogram. It was nice to bring a lot of glamour together with a sculptural feel of Roy Halston because he was sculptural but in a drapey way.

DD: Are you reinventing Halston's way with sculpture?
Marios Schwab: It's about taking elements I love about Halston and transfer that without being too strict with the restricts. It's important to detatch yourself from the history sometimes but in the back of your mind, still have the elements of what is important, which is that they have to be ultra-desirable.

DD: How do you separate what you do for your own label and what you do for Halston?
Marios Schwab: One is personal and the other has all this history behind it. They both have different dynamics and it's just exciting to be able to do both.