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Acne and Aviation

A combination presentation in Stockholm premiered the new Andreas Larsson-directed film for Acne's denim line.

Bundled up and huddled together in a gallery on the last day of Fashion Week by Berns was an altogether more intimate experience than the shows that had precceeded Acne's presentation. Of course, Acne had already had their show moment in London on the previous night, where Star Wars collided with fur and leather in their A/W 10-11 mainline womenswear collection so unsurprisingly, the presentation back in Stockholm was a little more subdued. With Chet Baker playing softly in the background, Acne creative director Jonny Johansson took to the stage and we were treated to a very informal presentation where in between introducing looks, Johansson would tell us anecdotes and also accidentally lapse into Swedish when speaking to the 'home' crowd.

Seventeen looks combining the Acne menswear mainline collection and the womenswear pre-collection were presented with the connecting theme of aviation tying the two together. It's all about the aviator jacket for both men and women, and in various styles, both collections provide covetable interpretations of this Amelia Earhart-inspired piece of apparel. The softer contrast points in men involve long-line shirts that are an elegant riff on the cheesy Hawaiian shirt with subtly printed florals. “For me when it comes to the men’s style – I always find combining feminine elements with strong masculinity super interesting. This contrast is something that I always play with but this season it is perhaps even more exaggerated – juxtaposing the floaty, fluid blouse with the strength of the super masculine aviator jacket,” explains Johansson. In the womenswear pre-collection, this motif is also used on shirts and dresses with detachable flying foulards and Madame Gres-esque pleats in nude dresses offset the hulking shapes of the jackets perfectly.

Afterwards, we were invited to cosy up to Acne's new furniture line as well as watch the new film directed by Andreas Larsson, for Acne's A/W 10-11 Denim collection. "What I have always felt is that fashion has been a still picture rather than a documentary but now for me the fashion film is becoming important – why should fashion not be film? The internet, live
streaming age has allowed this creative dialogue between and fashion and film, which I find exciting. Our first fashion film which we released for Spring/Summer 2010 was a collaboration with creative minds Michelle Jank and Richard Brandon Cox. For Autumn/Winter 2010 working with fashion photographer Andreas Larsson on direction was amazing as we have had such a long and creative relationship together.”