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Marie Jersild Viltoft

Beckmans XV

The Beckmans knitwear show at the Fashion Week by Berns in Stockholm evolves beyond knitwear.

Whilst Fashion Week by Berns has successfully pulled enough clout around it by gathering up the heavyweight Swedish brands such as Acne and Whyred, they are still keen to promote younger talent. So in recent seasons the Beckmans College of Design in Stockholm has been given an opportunity to showcase their second year students in a runway show, concentrating on the knitwear "niche". Of course knitwear coming from Beckmans is almost synonymous with names like Sandra Backlund who has set the bar high with her own unique type of knitted collaging. This season however, the students have been given the freedom to branch out from knitwear and knitted materials and instead have gone wild in experimentations that ranged from printed digital patterns and relief prints on leather to crochet metal cables and copper wire and glassware applications. Fifteen students showcased their work and with three to six ensembles each, the seeds of their potential were well and truly planted. Standouts included Emilia Engblad's exploration of an unborn android's protective layer that involved knitted sound cables. "My collection is about unborn humanoids or androids and it's to do with the feeling of being inside the body. The aesthetic is about skin and how skin can be electric," explains Enblad.

Isabelle Lundh travelled back to the myth of the son of Noah, King of Kithara which whilst being a menswear collection was shown on women: "Everything I made is menswear but I put it on women just to show that it can be just as beautiful on a woman as it is on a man."

Ellinor Kelner made interlocking cut-up garments that used zips to piecetogether jigsaw pieces of different colours and fabrics together to form one piece. "I studied pattern cutting and I thought it would be an interesting way of playing with different dimensions."

The fakeness of Photoshop was exploited by Tove Jansson in an unexpected treatment of physically raising details like shirt collars, pockets and lapels creating a 3-D relief effect: "I wanted to visualise the aesthetic of Photoshop. Everything becomes really flat in Photoshop and I wanted to make that distinction between the 2-dimensional and the 3-dimensional."