...and more fashion news you missed
Loaded with tradition and resistance, the sari is the subject of a new exhibition at London’s Design Museum. How did a swag of unstitched drape become a metaphor for the tangled definitions of contemporary India? How has it modernised to accommodate the lives of young people? How has it evolved to become a site of avant-garde innovation? How did Dior end up paying homage to the sari at its megawatt fashion show last month? Curator Priya Khanchandani maps these cultural histories across more than 60 saris, including those made from hospital waste, those worn at the Met Gala, and those that weren’t made to be worn at all – like Bharti Kher’s lacquered sculpture, which creates a portrait of an absent parent figure. Alongside the exhibition, the Design Museum will host a series of workshops with the hope of broadening the conversation to a new generation of intellectual aesthetes – among them sari-draping sessions and panel discussions on the topic of ownership and appropriation. The Offbeat Sari runs until September 17 and tickets can be purchased here.
In other news this week, Angelina Jolie announced that she would launch a fashion business with actual morals, while people fought tooth and nail for cheap Comme des Garçons at Dover Street Market’s archive sale. A couple of mutant queers attended Boudica, New York’s No Agency debuted its third issue of No Erotica, and ALL-IN unveiled its latest collection. For everything else you may have missed, click through the gallery below.
TYLER MITCHELL STEPS INTO THE FERRAGAMO WORLD
This week, Maximilian Davis hired Tyler Mitchell to shoot his Pre-Fall 2023 campaign for Ferragamo. “Tyler is someone who I’ve grown up with,” the designer said. “We’re part of the same community and we’ve always spoken about collaborating. There’s a simplicity and elegance to his work and the way that he captures people.” The same could be said about Davis’ latest collection, which is made up of minimalist silhouettes, clean cuts, and refined denim pieces. Click here to see more from the shoot.
MELISSA GETS BACK WITH JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
Melissa, the brand that was responsible for launching the jelly shoe into the mainstream, first collaborated with Jean Paul Gaultier in 1983. Four decades later, the labels are launching two new shoes – a heeled pump and a behemoth flatform – inspired by punk and 80s hardcore. As showcased in a Jean-Vincent Simonet-directed campaign, both models are latticed with thin, metal-studded transparent straps. Browse the capsule collection here.
SAMUEL ROSS FUNKS THE TIMBERLAND CLASSICS
Another strange shoe collab surfaced this week when Timberland launched a spate of pieces in partnership with A-COLD-WALL*. It’s the first release from Timberland's Future73 series – a collective of ascendant designers tasked with reinterpreting the brand’s signature designs. For its inaugural release, Samuel Ross has rejigged the trademark 6-Inch Boot and 3-Eye Lug Boot with a utilitarian, brutalist feel. Head over here to see more of that.
STOP THE WORLD, HADES WANTS TO GET OFF
These days, it’s very popular for people to consider themselves existentialists, questioning the point and purpose of life under “late capitalism”, with a “kill me now” approach to having to do things. London brand Hades seems to have caught on to all that and has released an AW23 collection inspired by Jean-Paul Satre. Pieces are emblazoned with phrases like “so this is hell” and “no exit”, which is quite Twitter of them. Click here to check it out.
YOU’RE A WINNER, YOU’RE A WINNER, EVERYONE’S A WINNER
This week, three ascendant designers were awarded three major prizes: 16Arlington won the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund, Lagos Space Programme won the Woolmark Prize, and Labrum won the Queen Elizabeth II award – the latter of which saw King Charles III traipse through the Dazed offices, which was odd. Stay tuned for this year’s LVMH Prize winner, which will be announced in the first week of June.
SCARLETT JOHANSSON BAGS THE ROLE OF A LIFETIME
The ever-chameleonic Scarlett Johansson fronted Prada’s latest campaign this week, which was centred around the brand’s Galleria handbag. Photographed by Venezuelan-American artist Alex Da Corte, the actor is bathed in vivid hues of coral, cobalt, and verdant green – pop art meets film darling meets fashion. Click here to see more of the campaign.
COI LERAY FRONTS MARC JACOBS FOR FENDI
One of the better collaborations to have come from that short-lived era of designer link-ups was Marc Jacobs for Fendi – a collection which turbocharged the Baguette bag in shoaled sequins and XXL sizes alongside plump bathrobe jackets and columnar skirts. All of that landed in shops this week with a Coi Leray-fronted campaign, which had been shot by Mario Sorrenti. Click here to look at that for a bit.
HERON PRESTON HAS AN LED LIGHTBULB MOMENT
This week Heron Preston launched the LED (Less Environmentally Destructive) creative studio, an amorphous and all-consuming project which includes a clothing donation program, a retail shop to sell “ideas”, a YouTube channel to host content, and a scholarship programme to broaden access to fashion. “It is my brain’s playground,” the designer said. “Set to enrich our understanding and meaning of how Less Environmentally Destructive concepts can take shape in culturally relevant and relatable ways.” Head over here for more on that.
FLANNELS PUTS THE HEAT ON YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS
Heron Preston isn’t the only one who’d like to make fashion a better place: Joe Wilkinson and Mario Maher of the subscription service HEAT have been enlisted by FLANNELS to lead the Ignite Prize – which will grant £10k to 18-25-year-olds innovating new circular systems within fashion. Beyond the cash, winners will get a year’s mentorship from HEAT and an opportunity to showcase their work with FLANNELS. If you think that could be you, apply here.
RAY-BAN GOES IN REVERSE
Vittoria Ceretti fronted Ray-Ban latest product launch this week: a series of classic models with concave lenses. Though that might sound antithetical to actually being able to see stuff, the brand promises these styles do not sacrifice on optical precision, thanks to astigmatic, prismatic and resolving powers. See more of that bizarre feat of tech here.